Safari!

Since I had a week before I started work I decided to go on a safari. The office suggested a travel agent who suggested I start at Masai Mara, which is right on the border of Tanzania's Serengeti. It's drivable, and I hear it's a beautiful drive that I'll have to do someday but maybe when I get my own car. For now, traveling alone they said it's cheaper to fly. I think it's the first flight I've ever been on that has stops. Mine was the second. On the first stop we landed amidst the annual great migration of the wildebeest. Hundreds were running by just along the runway - complete with integrated zebras. And all the runways were dirt:)

I stayed at Mara Savora Camp which was beautiful. Very nice "tents" and mine overlooked the salt lick where there were growling and playing big cats at night (I thought lions by the sound but someone else guessed leopards). Just on the drive to the camp we saw zebra, lions (hard to see sleeping in a bush), giraffe, elephants, etc. And I hadn't even gone on a game drive yet!

Those were unbelievable. I can't believe how close you get to the animals - in a open jeep! It seems almost sad that there are jeeps chasing the animals all over and they don't seem to mind. They seem clear that we aren't threats (while keeping their eyes out for real threats). It's also so nice to see thriving wildlife. After four drives I saw tons of lions- one with three cubs, one small pride eating a wildebeest- several cheetahs - again one with cubs and one eating a thompson gazelle- wart hogs, giraffes, lots of elephants (one with a tiny baby), a gazelle that was just hours old, buffalo, hippos, one black rhino, zebra and other gazelle/antelope things.

The people of the area (who are no longer allowed to live in the park) are the Masai. They are hired to work at the camps and I met a lovely man, Joseph, who helped me learn Swahili. I was reading in my tent one evening only to be startled to hear african drums and chanting. It struck me as so much more familiar and comforting than traditional indian music ever did. Overall I stayed two nights and did four game drives.

The flight back was in a tiny cesna, so full that one passenger had to sit up in the co-pilot seat (sorta wish that had been me). The woman ahead of me was scared of flying and cried the entire time. We made three stops on the way back. One flight was literally 2 minutes - can't figure out why people couldn't just drive that far.

First week in Kenya

Who knew that the Indian bureaucracy would be easier than the Kenyan?  I knew I was pushing my luck trying to bring 4 big bags and a cat to Kenya but the Indian side was surprisingly easy.  Had to get to the airport 5 hours early to put the cat in cargo and they surprisingly allowed my extra pounds but their credit card machine was broken so the hardest part was actually getting rupees to pay since I had gotten rid of all mine.  Got through Doha with no problem, got confirmation the cat was on board the second plane and got to Kenya (with the Kenyan Special Olympics Team).  Got my bags, got through customs and immigration, found the driver and went to pick up the cat.  That's when things got crazy.  A cargo agent approached us and the driver suggested we use him.  4 hours later, I had driven to three or four different areas of the airport about 25 times, gotten stamps, signatures and finally proof of life that the cat was ok.  I finally got to the apartment I'm staying at at about 7pm (flight landed at 12:30).

Since there are work permit issues here and you can't get your shipment of belongings until your permit clears I'm in a full serviced apartment until my stuff is here.  The apartment is quite nice, flat screen TV, coffee maker, oven, one bedroom (I asked for 3 but apparently there was a mix-up), wifi, a pool and a gym and a billiards room and a restaurant.  The strangest part is the in-room jacuzzi that replaces the shower which is very poorly placed and in order to adjust the hot and cold water you must walk through the sitting water (which is often very hot!).  

Tova and Scott (from Cali days) were coming through with his family for a safari vacation so I met up with them the first night.  The next few days were filled with meeting up with colleagues and Wangari.  One afternoon I went to the super market and realized a) I haven't been grocery shopping in a long time and b)I haven't been in a supermarket in a long time!  It took me 3 hours to buy some simple things (ketchup alone took me 15 minutes) and then had to come home and take a nap!

So far I'm reveling in the beer, beef, pork, coffee (ok, food in general), the music and kindness/friendliness of everyone.  The security is an issue but I've been okay walking to the market during the days and having a trusted taxi take me everywhere.  Just separate your money and don't carry a lot.  The funniest thing I've seen so far is the guys in the street selling bunnies, kittens and puppies.  And I thought they sold strange things on the streets in Delhi!

Last days in Delhi

After three years, I'm leaving Delhi tonight. I think I'm too tired to really sum up everything I've learned in and from India.  Clearly the time has come - I'm ready but it's also scary to think of not living here.  What I'll miss most is the people - Satender and Tenzing have become like family to me and were the teariest goodbyes.  My friends seem like they'll always be just down the street - I don't think it's really hit me that they won't!  I get the sense that my life will never be quite as crazy as it has been here.  Where else do you see a stray camel, a naked holy man and monkey gangs all on the way to work? (that was one day last week)  I'm excited for better food options and greenery that isn't dusty and safaris!!! but I will miss how easy it can be to get things done here.  For instance, last year the airline tore up my small suitcase and I've not found the perfect replacement so I asked my driver yesterday if he could mend it with packing tape.  Instead he took it to the guy sitting on the corner who fixes shoes and he stitched it up perfectly.  It's like new!  I think it cost 50 cents.

I'm completely unprepared to do anything for myself again - not looking forward to cooking, cleaning, ironing, washing, driving, running my own errands, making my own phone calls.  Satender actually thanked me for "his wife", ref

erring to the fact that I paid for her surgery a year or so ago.  Clearly he's giving me too much credit but it broke my heart.  Tenzing and Satender and Tenzing's mother all cried, which of course sent me bawling.  It's so bizarre to me that by total chance I ended up with this life where I don't have to worry about money - I have way more things than anyone needs - and Tenzing, who is my age, ends up so poor.  Her family is the last picture.

That's probably all I can process for now, I'm just praying that tomorrow me, my cat and my excess luggage all 

arrive safely in Nairobi (of those three things I'm least worried about myself).