Things I'm Thankful For

My 6th annual list of things I'm thankful for. Happy Thanksgiving!

1. In two more months, we'll be one less Bush, one more Obama
2. India, I have come to realize that living in India has prepared me for almost everything. Everything is easier here: Driving, crossing the street, bargaining, ignoring beggars/tauts, shopping, traveling, dealing with poor service, expectations (they are so low that they are constantly being exceeded), communicating in languages that I don't speak (I learned everything I'll ever need to know!), health problems (it's so much easier when the number of people effected doesn't end with "million" or "billion"), heat....
3. Africa, (I should just say Kenya as it's the only country here I've been to yet) but it's just lovely here and I've spent so many years trying to get here that it's wonderful to finally be here!
   
4. Animals! I love the big cats.. can't get enough. Even my little cat - who has been a handful the past few months but I know will be much better when I finally get her a yard to run around in
   
5. The iphone! I lost the ability to use it for a few weeks and my quality of life diminished exponentially.
   
6. Travel and new experiences. Since last thanksgiving I've been to Nepal, Japan, Papua New Guinea, Australia, Vietnam, the Andamans (technically in India but totally different), Bhutan, Cambodia and now Kenya. (oh, and India and the US too) I have to pinch myself sometimes that this is really my life
7. Facebook - it has given me access to so many old friends and a way to keep in even better touch with those I have kept in touch with.
8. Family - losing grandma in September not only makes me realize how precious it all is but looking around it dawned on me that I have an amazing family (and John!) that I love spending time with.
9. Satender and Tenzing - (driver and housekeeper from India) - while I don't have them around any more I am still grateful for how much they added to my life in India. I also realize that I will never be as lucky again and in this case need to lower my expectations.
10. My overwhelmingly generous friends and family - a few examples:

• My colleague in Kenya, Mary Ann, who didn't think twice about opening her house to me when I was left homeless due to a careless error by my company. She made a bad situation so much more bearable and it's actually nice to be around kids again.
• My friend/colleagues in India, Ragini and her son and Dana and Gertrude who went above and beyond the call of duty to check in on and ensure proper care when Tenzing was sick recently

I'm so blessed to have so many wonderful friends around the world, to have enough money to help others, and to earn that money doing what I love. Am trying to remember to count those blessings more than once a year.

Getting a Driving License in Kenya

So as I've since learned the best way to get a Kenyan driving license is to pay the $15 in the US for an international one and then just pay a fee to get a Kenyan one. The second way is to pay like $150 to our "fixer" who will get you a Kenyan license. I went the least efficient way which is to just apply and take the test. All in all will have cost me $33 and 6 hours. Totally worth the experience.

So first I went to AA (which is the equivalent of the US's AAA) and they did a quick assessment to see if I needed lessons. This is where I was introduced to the concept of the "model town" which is a driving board with a big roundabout and little matchbox cars that you have to move from point A to B. It's all about what lane you should be in on the roundabout. Then they tested me on street signs which was funny as they had the answers at the bottom so I just read the answers to them. They said I did average on the signs and failed the model town and said I needed lessons. I refused, signed up for a test and bought a book.

The book is hysterical in itself. I wish I had thought to scan this but the page on road signs has a sketch of two large elephants next to the road with a "danger, beware elephants" sign. A lot of english mis-speaks or typos too. I studiously memorized the street signs but don't actually know what chevrons, trunk roads, or slip road at grade separated junctions are but if I was shown the sign I could accurately name it!

I read an article by a BBC reporter on getting his license in Nairobi and he said it took him all day. So I came prepared for the long haul. As I believe expectations are 90% of frustrations vs. enjoyment I'm glad I was so prepared. I got to the police station (in Karen which is far far outskirts of Nairobi) at 8am. By 8:15 I had my papers and counted about 50 other people - most under 22 years old. Around 9 the policeman came out. First he berated the asian guy for being in the wrong place, called him chin chin and said he couldn't understand his chinese. The did not strike me as chinese (maybe korean) and everyone laughed and the funny, powerful policemen.

He spoke to us for an hour and mostly in Swahili. What I understood from the little english phrases and the few swahili words I know is that he warned us about the responsibility of driving, lectured us on accidents, told us he was not a teacher, nor an instructor and then proceeded to teach us the basics of signs, rules, roundabouts, overtaking etc. People laughed at various points. It only ended because he got a phone call (which he took). Finally, he said we could have a 5 minute break (when I just wanted things to get started). People were called in one by one (or two by two since there were two testers) for the theory part. As I was called he proceeded to kick out the very young kid in front of me, yelling viciously- calling him an iguana, I think (I'm sure it's a swahili word I misunderstood) and taking him by the scruf of his Maine East Volleyball sweatshirt. My turn took 5 minutes. He asked me to identify the yield sign, the road closed sign, and then a sign about priority to oncoming traffic but before I could answer he got distracted and moved me onto the "model town". I completely failed the first time. He gave me another chance and then corrected me that they drive on the left side (I just confused right and left so did a little of both). I paused for like 3 minutes because they say don't move the car until you know exactly where you're going and eventually finished. He passed me. I've learned I'm not good with toy cars.

We then waited in this shack full of goats (some with some scary horns)- pictured- to get called for the driving portion. I was in the first lot. We rode in the back of a huge truck for two minutes and then the first 4 people were finished and I was called. I got in back and this young girl was told to start the car. She really couldn't remember all the steps (clutch, 1st gear, hand brake). Suddenly he asked me to step in. I started the car on a very mild hill, pulled out (without signaling), went 20 meters and then pulled over and stopped. That was it. I passed! It was about 12noon. I waited 2 more hours for paperwork and it was done. I now have to give that paperwork to another building in the center of town and wait for my license.

Kenyan Coast

To continue seeing our work I visited the Coast this week; primarily three towns; Mombasa, Kilifi and Malindi. I flew in a day early to take a little time on the beach. I went to a place a colleague recommended Shaanti Hotel in Diani. It’s a yoga retreat kind of place. Because of late flights I ended up not having much time – but it was great to lay out for a few hours (stupid working sunscreen blocking all my tan with the cancer), have two sessions of yoga (sunrise and sunset), get an early morning jog on the beach in and generally just relax. It was expensive but nice (save the ants in the bed that I only learned later there was spray for in the room). The biggest surprise was on the morning jog – I came across four men practicing cheerleading stunts (specifically the diamond head). First picture is of Diani.

The following morning I drove back to Mombasa (using a car ferry that was very convenient but I hear can be a total nightmare). Again my company put me up in a swank beach hotel (Savora White Sands). It’s wonderful to be staying in such a great place but there are two drawbacks; 1 – you really don’t want to go to work and 2- the per diems won’t cover a single meal! The next two pictures are from that beach.

Again, it’s rejuvenating to see our work. Mostly I watched as a new hire did the selection tool with various clinics to see if they qualified to join our network. One clinic didn’t qualify for the first round but was the prettiest thing I’d ever seen. Turns out it was donated by a british family in honor of their relative who lived and died in that area of Kenya. I asked my colleagues how much they thought it cost and they estimated about $20,000. It had such an impact – good equipment, they built it to be run by a nurse who was the only one practicing in that area, new sterilization machine, computerized records. What a great way to honor someone! The other moment that stood out in the day was walking out of a slum clinic in Mombasa to the sounds of “Pour Some Sugar on Me” by Def Leoppard blaring from a nearby store.

That evening I went to the hotel’s beach bar as it was showing an NFL game (so when I get my own place, apparently local channels show NFL, sweet!) and was promptly hit on by some air force kid who made me feel really old. I couldn’t get the internet to work so I think I went to bed at like 8pm – driving around in hot weather while trying to maintain small talk with colleagues and be supportive yet helpful and come up with useful suggestions is exhausting! But it did mean I could get up really early for another sunrise beach jog. No cheerleading on this beach but there were a few guys doing gymnastics – apparently for a photo shoot. At one point a young guy jogged up to me and then did a flip, I was tempted to do one back but realized I probably couldn’t anymore! Sad.

The last two days we talked to two different women’s groups. The first one was a youth group but they were all mothers (and I think married) – the youngest was 15. We talked to them about various contraceptive options. Both were done sitting under the shade of a big tree as the weather on the coast is much hotter than Nairobi. The second group was of much older women (meaning my age!) many of whom had many many kids (one doctor mentioned that after a woman gave birth to her 8th kid she would start recommending sterilization). The youth group didn’t speak up much and giggled a lot (probably how I would have acted at that age) but the older women definitely did and it was a great discussion – at least it seemed that way in translation. It was in a very rural area and when we arrived in our company van (advertising mosquito nets and condoms) the women all cheered, and did it again when I got out of the van and again when I left (make an ‘o’ with your lips, make a high pitched ‘oooh’ and then click your tongue from bottom to top of your mouth – that’s what it sounded like). There was a school in the background with kids who never seemed to go inside. They sat along the side where there was a patch of shade or rolled a tire and then used it as a hula hoop. I so wish I could take the time to get real pictures! The second to last one is of the kids waving as I left.

Obama

I feel like I should probably attempt to describe what it's like being in Kenya for Obama's election. In case you don't know, Obama's dad was Kenyan. His father is deceased but his grandmother and other aunts/ cousins etc still live here. The family is a Luo - which is as I understand it represented by the opposition party that probably won the last election. The other ethnic group/party is the Kikuos, who were traditionally in power and whose candidate the election was called for. So the Luo's are ecstatic that Obama won but not all Kenyans. A few very opinionated Kikuos I've talked to have been very clear they weren't rooting for him (and many had put money on McCain).

With that caveat, it was very fun going around town and seeing all the Obama paraphernalia - guards wearing pins, lots of bumper stickers, some shirts. The Americans were ecstatic at the results. The head of the office here, an american woman, called a meeting to celebrate - sent an email to the staff saying "god bless america" and bought everyone fried chicken for lunch. The other americans seemed incapable of working they were so giddy. I was buying my car from an american couple in the afternoon and they had spent the day drinking (she worked at the embassy) and singing obama songs. Kids were all chanting obama all day. And still when I meet someone (taxi driver, salesperson) they ask if I'm american and then smile and say "Obama". Actually on the way back from my visit into central kenya last week, we stopped to buy vegetables as they driver wanted some for his family as they were so much cheaper than in Nairobi, and this drunk guy kept talking to me about how he had gone to Harvard and "HEY... OBAMA". And the Prime Minister (a Kikuo) declared November 5 a national holiday.

Now I’m in Mombasa and there are banners on various street corners advertising celebrations for Obama’s win. And the papers here have had him on the front cover for at least the last week. Today the story was about his step-mother (did you know Obama’s mother was his father’s second wife – meaning polygamy? I didn’t) and her memories of Obama senior. Kenya has high hopes for what this will all mean. I hear constant references to increased tourism – well represented in today’s paper

“We must turn Obama’s connection with Kenya into a major economic opportunity…. The tourism board should build a three-star hotel in Kogelo in anticipation of tourists…. I am sure there are many tourists from America and the rest of the world who would want to see the Kenyan history of Obama”.

Were any of you planning on visiting Kenya now because Obama’s dad is from here? Also in that same paper “Blacks will benefit from Obama’s presidency. They will not be treated as trash anymore”. Yikes – that’s a lot of expectations just cause one guy was elected. I also hear a lot of expectations on eased visa restrictions with the US – something else that seems unlikely.

Finally there’s Obama, the Musical. It played for about a week with the last performance the day of the election (5th November here). I saw the final show. It was relatively bad community theatre about Obama’s life and especially the Kenyan part. I think “loosely based” would be an apt description. Michelle came across as a greedy, diamond ring wanting, scared of all things Africa comic relief. And Barack Senior hitting on a white woman played by a black woman just didn’t work for me. Bush was portrayed as a pimp with many hussies??!? McCain was perfect. The music and dancing were great although the lyrics were laughable. In the play Obama had a huge heroin addiction, well acted but a little absurd and drawn out. The picture depicts Obama leading a congo line with Michelle following and then tribal folks etc. They had amended the end that day to incorporate his victory speech.

Anyways, it’s made saying you’re American get you happier responses than I’ve ever before experienced

Nyeri visit

Headed on my first field visit within Kenya this week- I can't even begin to explain how rejuvenating these trips are! Many of the villages look a lot like India. The big difference is there aren’t as many people around (and they don’t stare at me). The adults give me a second glance and then only stare if I’m not looking and the kids stare but eventually smile or wave if I do. It also took me all day to realize all the signs are in English and how much of a difference that makes. And only one guy peeing on the side of the road in 3 days! Very few stray dogs.

The scenery is stunning. The hotel I’m in is on the border of Aberdares Park (which I know nothing about) and in the background is Mount Kenya (the first picture is a view of Mt Kenya from breakfast). Quite a switch from hotels in India. The room is all wood and colonial with three double glass doors overlooking the grounds, has a fireplace (working), has a king bed and a single bed and a sitting area and a walk-in closet. Clearly needless space for a two night stay but still it’s nice! The place also has a pool and squash courts. I've never watch CSI- Miami with a crackling fire in the background!

On the drive here (which I’m guess was 3 hours total – we stopped at all these clinics along the way so I don’t really know how long it was) it turned into this lush palm hillsides. I’ve never seen a pineapple farm! The roads actually have side paths for people to walk on or ride bikes on and traffic therefore actually moves! The kids in uniforms are nearly impossible to not smile at but seeing them walk several miles without shoes and carrying their books in plastic bags. I know people are struggling (especially from talking to the nurses in the region) but it doesn't have the same feeling of helplessness or destitution that India did.

I never got to go into the park but it seems very different - terrain wise- from the other safaris I've done here. Very tropical and lush. I did see some giraffes on the hilltop but that was my only spotting of animals.

Of course the team kept sending me to these posh places for lunch and then would leave me there alone while they ate. Finally the last day I told the driver to just let me eat where he ate. The meals til then had been about 1200 shillings, and not that good. The meal with the driver was like 50 shillings (< $1) and so much better! The last picture is of my colleagues at lake chinga.