Sunday, September 09, 2007

A walk in Delhi

There are times when I wish I was a better writer so I could really capture what it's like to live here - the sights, smells, sounds.... a week or so ago I walked to my doctor's appointment (like 3 blocks down on the same street I live in) and that was one of those moments. I'll try. On the truck picture -which has nothing to do with the story - look at the words written in white in the center bottom.

So as usual I'm running later than I intended, getting into a longer conversation with Anna than I meant to. So I head out the door, am enveloped by sweaty heat - which I was reveling in because it was only high 90s and a slight breeze - and put the headphones of my ipod on. Since I saw a break in the traffic I immediately crossed the street in front of my house which is a four (?) lane highway with a median that is currently under construction, making it difficult to cross. So I hop the knee-high barbed wire and cross. On the other side of the street there's a fence separating the "sidewalk" from the street so I find a break in the fence and start walking down the sidewalk. I put sidewalk in quotes because while uniquely this one does not have many cars on it - it has many deep holes and many obstacles. There's a guy cutting hair and shaving with his mirror hung on the tree so I step over his clippings. There's a bunch of men sleeping on the sidewalk (as it's noon siesta time) - I like these guys cuz they are often snuggling and I wonder if they know they do that as they nap. I pass the pretty park that has almost no one in it because it's too hot. Then comes the area that is a defacto pissing wall, so as I approach I take a deep breath and hold it, to avoid the smell. It never fully works.

Then I get to the bus stop. There's always tons of people there so I have to step down (about a foot - not so handicap accessible) off the sidewalk down to the street and because there are always broken down vehicles and auto rickshaws hanging out I have to head halfway into the street to walk by. There are inevitably some people at the bus stop giving me looks that make me uncomfortable. And as soon as I step back up on the sidewalk I must duck (me!) due to the low hanging electrical wires. Then I have to cross a major intersection which always reminds me of playing that game 'Spider' we used to play on the elementary school swings where you try to get past one and wait in that small space hoping not to get hit and then run past the next. As this was a holiday (the celebration of sisters and brothers) the next segment of street was parked two rows in, so what should have been a four lane side of a road, now it's about 1 1/2 lanes. The first rows are parked front of the car to the curb and the next is parallel parked. So I'm back in the middle of the road, and of course there are people walking towards me so there's always this moment of who is going to be nice and step closer to the traffic and who will stay safe.

Then I pass the dumpster - one of the most foul smelling places. Dogs and cows are rifling through the garbage for food (fortunately this time there were no people rifling). Then past the group of tent homes that look temporary but have been there for at least 2 years whose sole business is creating the ceramic donut-shaped things people put around ceiling light fixtures. Seems very specialized to me but walking by these mini communities is always a mixture of emotions. Some of the kids look very happy but you can't help but notice their malnutrition-caused puffy bellies and the tents they live in.

I finally arrive at the hospital (which is crazy modern given the surroundings) and the guards barely know how to react to a white girl (full stop) and someone walking - which is never done. They almost tried to charge me a parking fee:)

2 comments:

  1. The best part about this post is that I can picture the whole thing :-)

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  2. I agree with Bev. I'm walking down the street with you...smells and all.

    Love,

    Mom

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